The Revival Of Acha
By
Kirsten Okenwa
 |
| Photo by Kirsten Okenwa. A rural woman in Plateau state, Nigeria, preparing Acha for drying and milling. |
I conversed with a friend who is in the USA for a short course and she
shared how delighted she was to have celebrated her first Thanksgiving in the
country. She was enthused over the holidays and recounted her food experience
at the family dinner she was invited to join. She had visited a Kenyan family
and they had the traditional American Thanksgiving cuisine of turkey and all
the trimmings, but there were also tureens of delicious native Kenyan foods.
Surprisingly, they also served “Acha”, Fonio in English, which is a
traditional food crop in many parts of northern Nigeria and some other West
African countries like Burkina Faso, Guinea and Togo. My friend is from Plateau
state, Nigeria and she was happy to find her local meal of Acha potage served
and enjoyed by her Kenyan hosts. They told her that Fonio was the new super-food
and many people in the USA and Caribbean have been introduced to this grain, a
smaller kind of millet, imported from West Africa. Food lovers and chefs are
preparing Acha (Fonio) with Mexican flavors and Caribbean spices. Others view Acha
as medicine and eat it in different ways to prevent health problems like
obesity, diabetes, hypertension and high cholesterol.
I concurred with my friend because I, too, have witnessed the recent revival
of Acha across Nigeria and beyond. More and more consumers are enjoying the tastiness
and dietary qualities of Acha. Rich in fiber, high in protein, minerals,
amino-acids, and many other nutrients, Acha is also gluten-free. This
nutrient-packed ancient grain is low in calories, making it the favorite for
fitness enthusiasts. It has become a trendy go-to meal especially in the
ever-increasing wave of health consciousness in Nigeria and around the world. I
have read and watched countless testimonials of people who have benefitted from
regular consumption of Acha.
Divers Acha recipes are returning to the dining table, as they are
considered best for our bodies. Many people desire to eat clean and live
naturally, and for some, eating organic foods like Acha is now fashionable.
Growing up in Kano state, I remember my mother cooking Acha on several
occasions. In my young mind, though we enjoyed the meals, I viewed eating Acha
as a sign we were low on rice or macaroni. Even at boarding school, we enjoyed
Acha with our northern friends, brought to them from home during visiting days;
but we never really understood the health benefits. It was just another “Hausa”
food to eat. Today, the health and agriculture benefits of Acha is spreading
and no surprise that the cost of Acha has suddenly skyrocketed in our Nigerian
markets. Formerly known as “Hungry-Man Rice” because it was viewed as a poor
man’s rice substitute, Acha is now widely consumed by both the rich and poor.
Acha (Fonio) grown for over 5000 years by West African farmers, is a cereal
crop prized for its resilience and minimal water requirements. It has emerged
as an important food source in discussions about regenerative and sustainable
agriculture, particularly in regions facing water scarcity. Acha is valued for
its ability to grow in areas of drought and high temperatures. It is among the
world’s fastest maturing cereal (60-70 days). A very hardy crop, it grows well
on poor soils, and can even produce seed on soils that are toxic to other
crops. Fonio can grow without fertilizer, pesticide, fungicide and constant
irrigation. It is sometimes regarded as the “grain of life” as it provides food
early in the farming season, when other crops are yet to mature for harvest.
Though Acha is widely cultivated today, very little is known about the
grain’s evolution, origin and genetic characteristics, unlike other millets. The
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) has organized
several initiatives to highlight the various health, environmental, social and
economic benefits of Acha (Fonio), the rich heritage and vast potential of the
grain. Using local African chefs, social media influencers, youth and women
organizations, the FAO and partners are creating more awareness on this indigenous
crop.
It is pleasing to see the myriad ways Acha is being revived in the food
and beverage sector. I watched an American brewer Garrett Oliver, the
brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery, speak highly of his Fonio beer. Garrett's
exploration with Fonio in beer making was inspired by Senegalese chef Pierre
Thiam. After seeing a TED talk by Thian, Oliver saw the potential to use Fonio
in a brewing context, to support African communities and farmers. The new Fonio
beer is doing well in the market and Garrett hopes that by introducing brewers
around the world to this brewing ingredient, there will be a wider use of this
sustainable grain in beer.
Other entrepreneurs are giving big names to their Acha products. In Jos,
Plateau state, a young lady rebranded the humble, native kunun acha, a local nourishing drink made from grains like Acha.
She calls her product Acha Latte, and
her market is large! Another entrepreneur on social media vends a local cookie
that has been a staple munching snack made with Acha, but now sold as
‘fat-free’, ‘healthy’ and ‘oil-free’ snack called Fonio Crispies.
Whatever the new name to this resilient, nutritious indigenous crop, we
are pleased to witness and enjoy the revival of Acha.
Kirsten
Okenwa is a writer and Industrial Chemist. She has over 20 years work in the
nonprofit sector. Kirsten is fervent about food systems and agriculture.
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